Namibia 2015

During September 2015, we did a trip to Namibia which consisted of two parts: a train trip between Windhoek and Swakopmund; and a road trip from Windhoek International Airport to Lüderitz.

This page presents an overview of the daily activities. The activities done on each day will be linked on separate pages.

Train Trip

Introduction

Pat loves train travel, and one of our dreams was to do a trip from Pretoria to Namibia by rail. Such a trip is offered by Rovos Rail, but is very expensive. Pat did her homework and found another company offering rail trips, JB Tours in Johannesburg. JB Tours have several tour packages in Namibia and we had to toss up between their 7-day trip and 14-day trip. I was very keen on the 14-day trip as it covers more of Namibia. Unfortunately, it was also very much more than double the price of the 7-day trip. I wanted to see and photograph Kollmanskop ghost town in the Lüderitz area and what put me off about JB Tours' 14-day itinerary was that only part of an afternoon was allowed for the visit to Kollmanskop. With the rather fickle weather in the Lüderitz area, one needs more than one day to get the right conditions to photograph the village in the best light.

JB Tours 7-day tour starts at Windhoek station and then meanders to Swakopmund and back again. Transfers to an from Windhoek Station and Windhoek International Airport were included in the costs. Every day, various trips were organised as part of the package, with the train acting as hotel for overnight accommodation. Breakfast was served on the train every morning, and dinner every evening, except two, where we ate at a restaurant. However, JB Tours paid a portion of those restaurant dinners. Lunch had to be paid by the members of the group individually, but the day trips were organised in such a way that a stop was made around lunch time at an eating place.

Arrival

We were met at the airport by our tour guide Kobus Barnard. Pat and I were the first through, and were ushered through to an entrance where were were to meet the tour driver and the other guests. Other folks on the same flight as us were not as lucky as us with customs. Most, including Raymond, had to unpack their luggage at a whim of the customs officials. This gave me the chance to buy a Namibian SIM for my cellphone (MTC had a very nice 7-day package which included voice, SMS and data in a bundle for less than N$50).


Our tour guide, Kobus Barnard, taking a break in Omaruru.
Photo courtesy Ray Burger

While waiting for the rest of the group who were on the same flight, Pat, Cindy and I met our bus driver and our daily transport for the next week.


Our bus driver, Ewald.

The Sunshine Tours bus, the transport on our daily outings.

Finally, when everyone managed to clear customs, the bus could depart on the 40km trip to Windhoek. Kobus kept us entertained during the trip to the station with snippets concerning landmarks that we passed. We arrived at the station slightly after the scheduled departure time of 16:00, but that wasn't a problem as technicians were busy with the air conditioning units on two carriages. This gave us a bit of time to take some pictures around the station.


The train in Windhoek Station, with two technicians working on the air conditioning unit of our carriage. Raymond leaving the carriage to take some pictures.

The historical Windhoek Station building, with the red carpet out for the guests.
(Perspective correction has been applied to this picture.)

Another view of the train and the station building from the pedestrian bridge over the railway lines.

A huge shock to us was just how tiny the compartment was on this train. Especially when comparing it with the opulence of the Blue Train.


A view of the compartment, with the shower/toilet cubicle on the right.

A view of the toilet cubicle, with the handbasin swung into the shower to access the toilet.

A view of the shower cubicle, with the handbasin swung over the toilet to access the shower.

The luxury of the compartment on the Blue Train.

The dining and lounge cars were as well laid out as that on the Blue Train.


The dining car, with the doorway at the far end leading into the lounge car.

The work on the air conditioning units was completed somewhere around 19:00, but before we could leave the electrical generators had to be tested. A problem here delayed our departure for another 30 minutes, so our first supper was started under candlelight, with the train stationary in Windhoek Station!


The electricity generator for the train.

The food served on the train was excellent throughout the trip. It is hard to believe that the chefs could produce such good food, for so many people, in the tiny space they had for a kitchen. There were choices to each course of the three course meal!


The chefs at work in their kitchen.
Photo courtesy Ray Burger

The train finally got underway during supper, which meant we went to sleep that night with the train in motion on its way to Karibib. Unfortunately, sleep was shortlived, as once the train stopped at Karibib the racket of the air conditioner woke us up (it was directly under our compartment). The problem sounded like a limit switch which was not allowing the unit to switch on (or conversely, remain off). This very irritating problem lived with us throughout the trip.

Day 2

As a result of the noise from the air conditioner, most of the people in our carriage were first in the breakfast queue! The early breakfast gave us a chance to wander around Karibib before the bus arrived to take us on our first outing.


The train at Karibib siding.

The old Karibib Station, now a fish and chips shop.

The Rösemann Building (built in 1900), formerly a hotel, now a bank.

Outing 1: Karibib to Omaruru and back to Karibib

After the bus trip, we had supper on the train which was stationary at Karibib for the night. Fortunately, we were all pretty tired after the day's trip so we slept reasonably well through the noise of the air conditioner.

Day 3

The train set off for Swakopmund during breakfast the following morning. Although it was rather tricky to take pictures through the train window, I did manage to get a few which showed the change in scenery from bushveld to true desert.


Views from the train, Karibib to Swakopmund.

Views from the train, Karibib to Swakopmund.

Views from the train, Karibib to Swakopmund.

Views from the train, Karibib to Swakopmund.

Views from the train, Karibib to Swakopmund.

Views from the train, Karibib to Swakopmund.

Views from the train, Karibib to Swakopmund - from here on there was no more grass.

Views from the train, Karibib to Swakopmund.

Views from the train, Karibib to Swakopmund with the coastal mist starting to appear.

At the Rössing Uranium Mine siding, we met up with the bus for a tour through the Moon Landscape, Walvis Bay and Swakopmund. We would meet up with the train again at Swakopmund

Outing 2: Rössing Mine to the Moon Landscape, Walvis Bay and Swakopmund

That evening, we had dinner at Kucki's Pub in Swakopmund [I wasn't really that impressed with Kucki's]. (some pics soon - Ray was the only one from our group to take any in Kucki's!)

Day 4

On day 4 there were a series of specialist outings in which the management of the train were not invloved (other than making the recommendations and bookings, this was from the participant's own pocket). Pat and Cindy did a boat trip in Walvis Bay harbour to see the birds and seals. Raymond and I wanted to do the Living Desert Tour, but unfortunately were too late with our bookings as the outing was already full, so instead we did a "self-guided" tour of Swakopmund on foot.

Outing 3a: Walvis Bay dolphin and seal boat trip

Outing 3b: Self-guided tour of Swakopmund

After a quick snack at Cafe Anton, we headed for our next self-guided outing to the Kristal Galerie.

Outing 3c: Kristal Galerie



To be continued